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Spirits For The Spirit: The Legacy of Laird & Co.
12/29/2007 - By by Richard Fireman

Spirits For The Spirit: The Legacy of Laird & Co.

The Legacy of Laird & Co.For those who know it came as no surprise when, in 2001, Laird and Company won the award for the best New Jersey Family-run Business of the Year; it was recognition long overdue.

Laird, after all, is Americas oldest distillery, having the proud distinction of having been granted License #1 after  Prohibition; and it was born right here in Colts Neck and the first record of sale was in 1780! As youll find out below (and on their website: www.lairdandcompany.com), the business has a rich and storied past, replete with U.S. presidents and historical personages. Over the years its had its  share of ups and downs, has contributed greatly to American culture, and has branched out into a multidimensional enterprise. No longer do people wake  up and tip a wee bit of applejack with their breakfast, as they used to do a couple of hundred years ago; in fact, applejack today only represents a small  portion about 5% of their total revenue. As Larrie Laird, President and CEO of the operation, has said, although it is now only a small part of their  business, they have no intention of ever stopping its production; theres an emotional as well as historical connection. As Vice President Lisa Laird Dunn,  who is in charge of advertising and public relations for the company, phrased it, its their heart and soul. LICN sat down with her to explore her views on  Lairds past, present, and future.

I suppose Laird is best known for your three flagship products. Please tell us about them.

Lairds Applejack and our Lairds Apple Brandies  we have the 7 -year old and the 12-year old. Applejack today is not what it was back in the Colonial era. In the mid 70s we changed the Applejack  to a blended product. Today it is 35% apple brandy, 65% neutral grain spirits: like a blended whiskey, but with an apple brandy base rather than rye or corn.  Prior to the 70s, Applejack was a straight brandy. The reason for the change was the taste of the American consumer. Consumers were moving towards  lighter spirits. At the time, all of the brown whiskey-type products were becoming blended and a little bit lighter. So we basically went with the consumer  trend. And also, its quite expensive for the raw materials as well, because in each 750 [ml] of applejack theres seven pounds of apples


and thats only with 35% apple brandy. Our straight brandies are over 20 pounds of apples per bottle; so its a lot of raw material. We have our  Lairds 71?2 -year-old apple brandy; this is a straight apple brandy at 80 proof, and its aged for a minimum of 71?2 years. This is also a great product for  making different cocktails, but a sipping brandy as well. And then we have our Lairds 12year-old Rare Apple Brandy, which we introduced in 1999; this  is a straight 100% apple brandy at 88 proof, aged a minimum of 12 years. We also have a fourth apple product, Lairds Bonded Apple Brandy, which is a  straight apple brandy at 100 proof that has been gaining some popularity in New York City. Many of the top bartenders have been developing signature cocktails and its becoming quite popular in the city.

You have your own orchards?

No, we dont have an apple tree! We purchase all of our apples from the Shenandoah Valley down in Virginia. That is where we do our actual  fermentation and distillation. Our distillery is in North Garden, Virginia. There arent any apples left in New Jersey! We used to be surrounded by apple  orchards; [now] its all housing developments.

Historically, Ive read that your applejack was first sold a couple of miles from here at the Colts Neck Inn. Do you still have a relationship with  them?

We still frequent the account quite often. Theyre very supportive of Lairds Applejack and all our brands; so yes, we do have a relationship with  them. Thats where we started.

Being the 9th generation of the Laird family, do you feel a kind of obligation to continue the traditions established by your ancestors? Or do you  want to take things in new directionsor some of both?

There is a huge responsibility to continue the family tradition I represent the 9th  generation, so I do not want to be the one that messes things up! [laughs] There is a lot of pressure, but I do enjoy it. In 2005, for our 225th anniversary, I developed a new package which I think brought us into the 21st  centurymuch more upscale, a little more contemporary; but it still had the historical look to it. That was a tough road changing the package with the  family. Applejack was always in an amber bottle, and we had to go to a clear bottle. I didnt show the family the package until I was finished designing it,  because I knew I would never get a consensus. When they first looked at it there was just silence. But now everyone has grown accustomed to it, and they like the package and it has fulfilled its purpose. Sales have increased, our distribution has increased, and we have also received great publicity with the new  package. Were even getting some play with the younger consumers now they are very, package-conscious but we have also received a few e-mails from  some old-timers that have been enjoying the Lairds Applejack for years and saying they like the old package; one gentleman actually asked us to send him  a label to frame so he could still see his old package! [laughs]

Speaking of tradition, I understand this building dates back to revolutionary times. The sense of history it brings is amazing. Do you find it still  inspiring, or has it become matter-of-fact for you?

Its a great place to come and work every day; its not like going to a normal office. I love it here. And I think it really does instill the history and the tradition of the companyof what we have established and accomplished here.

A few years ago (2001) your company won the award for the best New Jersey family business. That must have been very gratifying.

Oh, yes, it was great. I laugh, though: it took us 221 years for us to get it, to finally be recognized; but it was great. We felt very honored to receive  the award.

Can you tell us something about your plant in Virginia near the Blue Ridge Mountains? Do you like to travel down there?

It is beautiful country where our distillery is located. I try to go down there once a year, usually in October when were distilling; our distillation  period is from September through November. We purchased our Virginia facility in 1941 when we were expanding the businessmy grandfather and great  uncle had started a campaign to purchase other apple brandy brands, applejack brands, and distilleries in order to preserve the integrity of the product.  uring Prohibition everybody was producing bootleg applejack: there were hundreds and hundreds of applejack distilleries up and down the east coast. With  the enactment of the 21st Amendment, most of these distilleries became legal operations. Lairds was the brand leader. Many of our competitors would  take an empty bottle of Lairds Applejack, refill it with their product and then resell it. In order to protect our name, and the product, we started this  campaign and we purchased close to 150 different applejack and apple brandy labels. My grandfather also developed a patented, non-refillable bottle to  ensure that our competitors couldnt continue this practice.


And during that time period is when we purchased the Virginia Fruit Distilling Company in North Garden, Virginia [in 1941]. We have just three  employees there year-roundthats it.

Thats it?! I imagined this big plant.

No, its very small. We only distill 3 months of the year, and applejack is not as popular as it was back in its heyday. Applejack is a very small  percentage of our overall sales and profit for the company; but it is the heart and soul.

So what is one of the largest components of your business?

Right now the Value Spirits. In this market youll find Laird vodka, gin, rum, CanadianWe also have the Bankers Club line, the Kassers linewe  have a range of products from vodka, gin, rum, tequila, amaretto, Canadian scotch, blended whiskey, bourbonjust about any product, we have a label for  it...and we ship nationwide. We also import wines and spirits, predominantly from Italy and Chile. Our import portfolio has become a very important  component of our business. We have also just begun exporting applejack to Great Britain. This is a big venture for us.

Some of it to Scotland too, I guess?

Yes, were finally returning home [laughs].

LICN: Can you tell us about some of the charities and non-profit organizations supported by Laird?

There are so many. We are always donating to different organizations Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation, Jersey Shore Partnership,  Collier Services, New Horizons in Autism, and Friends of the Park. We always work with the American Cancer Society, the American Heart Association,  all the way to the Holmdel Fire Department. We get very involved with all the community services.

I read about the search for the original letter from George Washington inquiring about the recipe for applejack. I wondered if it ever turned up or if it  turned up on e-bay!

LLD: [laughs] No, it hasnt turned up yet! Were still lookingI think, unfortunately, it may have burned. We donated the letter to the Monmouth  Historical Society for safekeeping and they had a fire either it burned or someone took it at that point.

Speaking of history, I understand Abraham Lincoln served your applejack in a saloon he owned.

Mm-hmmfor 12 cents a half-pint.

Wow. I think its a little more now

Just a tad.

That was before he went into politics?

Yes. He was a tavern owner.

And President Lyndon Johnson had a connection?

Yes, when they had the summit in Glassboro with Kosygin [1967], as a token of America and as a gift, Johnson gave Kosygin a case of Lairds  Applejack. There are stories of the state police coming up and getting the case and taking it down there.

Also President William Henry Harrison?

William Henry Harrison, yesthe Hard Cider Candidate. They say that at his Whig rallies the hard cider which was applejack was flowing so  freely that he got the voters inebriated and they went and voted for him [laughs].

Hey! Thats a good strategy! [laughs]

And he won the election! But that was what they did they used to ply the voters with alcohol and then go get them to vote. That was a very  common practice back then.

Is it true that your applejack was originally known as Jersey Lightning?

Yes, as far as I know; its had quite a few other names too, some that werent so appealing. Hedgehog Quillsit was high proof, very rough, and a lot  of it in the Colonial Era was homemade

Like moonshine?


Youve kept up with the times with a fascinating website, Lairdandcompany.com. In addition to lots of facts and a great history, I noticed some  interesting recipes on there, both for food and mixed drinks. Care to tell us about any of your favorites?

OkayI put applejack in just about everythingit is very versatile to work with. We have a stuffed pork chop recipe that I make with an applejack  glaze, and then also theres Veal Scobeyville it has a cream apple brandy sauce thats absolutely delicious we also have an onion soup recipe thats really  good. Applejack is great with dessertour applejack pound cake is phenomenal, apple piesTo celebrate our 225th [anniversary] I traveled around the  country and spoke about the history of applejack. For these presentations we developed an authentic 18th century menu, and all the recipes were prepared  with applejack. We also had cocktails that were paired with each dish. The dessert was an apple bread pudding, which was Emeril Lagasses recipe. He uses  applejack on his show. And then drinksMy favorite for years has been the Applejack Old Fashioned. One of my recent favorites is the Jersey Girl. It is basically a Cosmopolitan, prepared with applejack instead of vodka; very nice.

Is it true that you originally trained to be a veterinarian?

That was my original plan. It was always an inner battle.

Any second thoughts about that? Are you involved with any animal-related causes?

No. I think my son is going to take the reins with working with animals; hes only 10 now, but he keeps telling me hes going to move to Australia  and work with the Australian zoo. His idol was Steve Irwin. Any question you ask him about animals he can tell you; he loves animals.

So youre married with children?

Yesmy son, Gerard, is 10 and my daughter, Laird Emilie, is 8.

Does your husband [Jerry] work in the business?

No, he is a territory sales manager for the nations largest videoconferencing integrator.

Can you tell us a little about Lairds historical connection with horseracing?

Fashion is recognized as the best race mare of all time. Her trainer was Joseph Tilton Laird, who was my great-great-grandfather, and her jockey was  Joseph Tilton Laird Jr., my great-grandfather. It is amazing how famous she was they had gloves named after her, people would name children after her;  the people of that time were just so into the races. In fact, prior to the Civil War, the big match race was between the North and the South, which would  draw huge crowds. I think it was 1841 when one of the most famous match races was between Fashion she represented the North and Boston, who  represented the South. My great-grandfather rode her to victory. The race was four 1-mile heats, with a purse of $20,000. My great-great-grandfather was a  great trainer in the mid 1800s. He ran the Colts Neck Inn, operated the distillery, and he still found time to pursue his passion, raising thoroughbred  racehorses.

Back during the Prohibition era Laird was granted a special exemption, a federal license.

For one million gallons. During Prohibition doctors would prescribe alcohol for medicinal purposes; but Im sure some of that inventory also went to  the politicians. I dont think it was all for medicinal purposes. There were articles that my grandfather and my great-uncle were concerned about delivering.  Prohibition is when the mob came into play. There were a lot of bootleggers then, and quite a few applejack bootleggers here in New Jersey.

Some time after that is it true that the company used to sponsor a beauty pageant for Miss Applejack?

Yes, there was a Miss Applejack Beauty Pageant.

Where do you see the company headed in the future? Any new plans you can let the readers in on, or are they secret?

Our plan is to keep an eye on the marketplace and be able to adapt; that is one thing we have been able to do very well in order to keep the company  going for so long. Because we are a small family firm we can adjust fairly quickly to market trends and make the necessary changes internally in order to  survive. At one time we were just applejack, but we have diversified through the years with other types of brands. We will continuously look for new  products. We will continue to expand our wine and imported spirit portfolio. My primary goal is to export Lairds applejack into additional markets. I think  that is where our growth will be.


Lairds History at a Glance

[adapted from www.lairdandcompany.com]

1698 Great-Great-Great-Great-Great-Grandpa Bill

Alexander Laird, a County Fife Scotsman, emigrates with sons Thomas and William [Bill]. Bill settles in Monmouth County and begins  production of applejack for his own use, as well as for his friends and neighbors.

1717 Colts Neck Inn

A descendant of William Laird builds the Colts Neck Inn, which serves as a stopping point for stagecoaches and dispatch riders  traveling from Freehold to Amboy, NJ. Robert Lairds accounts book of the Colts Neck Inn operations in 1780, the first commercial  records, shows that "cyder spirits" - applejack - was a standard item on the menu, at a price of four shillings, six pence per gallon: about  a half-days wages.

1760 George Washington

Robert Laird, a Revolutionary War soldier under George Washington, supplies the troops with applejack. Historical records show that  prior to 1760 George Washington wrote to the Laird family requesting their recipe for producing applejack, which the Laird family gladly  supplied; to this date he is the only outsider to have been shown the recipe. Entries appear in Washingtons diary in the 1760s  regarding his production of "cyder spirits."

1780 The first known commercial record of Lairds Applejack is sold.

1849 Fire

The applejack distillery flourishes at the Colts Neck Inn site until 1849, when a fire burns the distillery to the ground. Robert Laird, a  fifth generation Laird, rebuilds the distillery at its current Scobeyville site. In 1851 expanded commercial production of applejack begins.

1900s Prohibition, Exemption, War Efforts

In the early 1900s, sixth-generation Joseph T. Laird, Jr., faced with Prohibition, is able to keep the company in operation by  producing other apple products, such as sweet cider and applesauce. Seventh-generation John Evans Laird and his brother, Joseph T.  Laird, III, also keep the company in operation by producing other apple products during Prohibition. In 1933 Laird & Company is   granted a federal license under the Prohibition Act to produce apple brandy for "medicinal purposes," allowing the company to reopen the distillery. This also allows the company to have aged inventories of applejack available immediately after the repeal of Prohibition.  New and modern facilities are added, and applejack production continues until the outbreak of World War II, when the plant is  converted to the drying and dehydration of apple pomace for production of pectin and other products to aid in the war effort.

Today, and for almost 300 years, the art of producing applejack has been passed down through successive generations of the Laird  Family. Eighth generation Larrie W. Laird is now President of Laird & Company and heads Americas oldest family of distillers.

Favorite restaurant:
Forte and Shipwreck

Favorite musical artist:
I have always loved Elvis; also The Eagles and Rob Thomas

Favorite movies:
Gone with the Wind, Braveheart, and Titanic.

Biggest pet peeve:
Bad manners of young people today

People I would like to dine with:
My seven greats grandfather William Laird I would love to know his thoughts, dreams, and aspirations as he arrived in America and why he left  Scotland;
my grandmother, Mabel Laird I was 1-month old when she passed away and I never had the opportunity to know her;
Ronald Reagan I admired his leadership qualities, moral standards, and love for our country.

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